Colombia: the only risk is wanting to stay

Years ago, Colombia launched a tourism campaign with a line that made people smile: "Colombia, the only risk is wanting to stay." I have lived in Manizales for the past year, and I can tell you that the slogan is not marketing. It is a warning. I arrived with a suitcase, a laptop and a teaching schedule. I stayed for the people, the mountains, the coffee, the music and a way of life that makes every day feel a little warmer.

This guide is my love letter to Colombia. It covers the culture, the people, the food, the flag, the history and the places you should not miss. If you are planning a trip, or dreaming of a longer stay as a digital nomad, I hope it helps you understand why so many visitors come for two weeks and stay for years.

Colombia at a glance

Colombia is the only country in South America with coastlines on both the Caribbean and the Pacific. That one fact explains a lot: within a single country you can wake up on a tropical beach, have lunch in a cool mountain city and finish the week in the Amazon. The variety is not only geographic. Each region has its own accent, food, music and personality.

The people: warmth you feel from the first day

If you ask travelers what they remember most about Colombia, the answer is almost always the same: the people. Colombians are curious, generous and proud of their country. Strangers give you directions and then walk with you to make sure you arrive. Neighbors invite you for a coffee after the second conversation. Shopkeepers call you mi amor, mi reina or vecina, and it is not flirting; it is affection built into everyday language.

In Manizales, I learned that a greeting is never just "hello." People ask how you slept, how your family is, whether you have had breakfast. The rhythm is slower than in many Western cities, and relationships come before transactions. When I go to the bakery, the conversation often lasts longer than the purchase. At first I was in a hurry. Now I look forward to it.

Regional personalities

• Paisas (Antioquia, Caldas, Risaralda, Quindío) are known for their entrepreneurial spirit, their hospitality and their strong regional pride.
• Costeños on the Caribbean coast are famous for their humor, their music and their relaxed attitude toward time.
• Rolos from Bogotá tend to be more formal and reserved at first, with a rich cultural life of museums, theater and bookstores.
• Caleños from Cali live for salsa; the city calls itself the world capital of the dance.
• The Pacific region has a strong Afro-Colombian culture, with marimba music and traditions recognized by UNESCO.

Colombians are also extremely patient with foreigners who try to speak Spanish. Every attempt is celebrated. As an English teacher, I find this lovely: it is the same attitude I try to bring to my own students who are afraid to speak.

The flag: yellow, blue and red

The Colombian flag has three horizontal stripes: yellow on top, taking up half of the flag, then blue and red, each taking a quarter. It comes from the flag designed by Francisco de Miranda, a hero of Latin American independence, and it is shared in spirit with Venezuela and Ecuador, which were all part of Gran Colombia after independence.

The most common interpretation of the colors, taught in schools, is:

• Yellow: the wealth of the land, the gold and the sun.
• Blue: the two oceans that touch the country, the Caribbean and the Pacific.
• Red: the blood shed by those who fought for independence.

You will see the flag everywhere: on balconies during national holidays, on the shirts of football fans when the national team plays, and on the faces of children at school events. When the national team scores, the whole country seems to turn yellow.

A short history of Colombia

Before the Spanish

Long before Europeans arrived, the territory was home to sophisticated Indigenous cultures. The Muisca lived on the high plateau around present-day Bogotá and were skilled goldsmiths. The Tayrona built stone cities in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, including the site known today as Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City. In the south, the San Agustín culture left hundreds of carved stone statues that are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The legend of El Dorado, the man covered in gold who offered treasures to the gods in Lake Guatavita, comes from a Muisca ceremony.

Colonial times

Spanish expeditions reached the Caribbean coast in the early 1500s. Santa Marta was founded in 1525, Cartagena in 1533 and Bogotá in 1538. Cartagena became one of the most important ports of the Spanish Empire, protected by walls and fortresses that still stand today. The colonial period mixed Indigenous, European and African peoples and cultures, a mixture you can still see in Colombia's faces, food and music.

Independence

On July 20, 1810, a dispute in Bogotá over a borrowed flower vase became the spark of a movement for self-government. That date is celebrated as Independence Day. The decisive military victory came on August 7, 1819, at the Battle of Boyacá, led by Simón Bolívar. After independence, Colombia was part of Gran Colombia with Venezuela, Ecuador and Panama, before becoming a separate republic. Panama separated in 1903.

Modern Colombia

The twentieth century brought growth, coffee exports and also long periods of internal conflict. In 2016, the government signed a peace agreement with the FARC guerrilla, and President Juan Manuel Santos received the Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts, a symbol of a new chapter. Today Colombia is a dynamic country with growing cities, a young population, a rich cultural scene and a tourism industry that welcomes millions of visitors. The Colombians I know are honest about the difficult past and determined about a better future. That combination of memory and hope is part of what makes the country so moving.

Culture that conquered the world

Gabriel García Márquez, born in Aracataca, won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1982. His novel One Hundred Years of Solitude made "magical realism" famous, and many visitors say Colombia itself feels a little magical. The painter and sculptor Fernando Botero, from Medellín, created his famous voluminous figures, which you can see in Plaza Botero. And Colombian musicians, from Shakira to Carlos Vives, J Balvin and Karol G, have taken the country's rhythms to every continent.

The food: a reason to stay all by itself

Colombian food is generous, comforting and regional. Every area has its specialties, and meals are a social event. Here are the dishes you must try.

Sweets and snacks

Colombians love sweets. Try buñuelos (fried cheese balls) and natilla at Christmas, obleas (thin wafers with arequipe, the local caramel), pandebono and pan de yuca with a hot drink in the afternoon, and bocadillo, a guava paste often eaten with cheese.

Fruits you have never seen

Colombian markets are a paradise of fruit. Lulo, maracuyá, guanábana, granadilla, uchuva, pitahaya, tomate de árbol, curuba and mangosteen are just the beginning. Ask for a fresh juice in water or milk, and the vendor will be happy to explain each fruit. It is one of the best vocabulary lessons you will ever have, in Spanish or in English.

Coffee, of course

In the Coffee Region, a small black coffee is called a tinto, and people drink several a day. Visiting a coffee farm, from the plant to the cup, is an essential experience. I wrote a full guide to the Coffee Region, where Manizales is one of the main cities. Also try aguapanela, a drink of cane sugar dissolved in water, served hot with cheese or cold with lemon.

Music, dance and celebration

Colombia has a soundtrack. Cumbia was born on the Caribbean coast, mixing Indigenous flutes, African drums and Spanish influences. Vallenato, played with an accordion, tells stories of love and daily life and is recognized by UNESCO. Salsa rules in Cali. Champeta makes Cartagena dance. Reggaeton fills the clubs of Medellín. In the Andes, bambuco and pasillo carry a more nostalgic tone.

Festivals are everywhere. The Barranquilla Carnival, recognized by UNESCO as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity, is one of the biggest in the world. Medellín celebrates the Flower Festival in August, with growers carrying huge flower arrangements on their backs. Cali hosts its Fair at the end of December. And Manizales celebrates its own Fair every January, with music, parades, a beauty pageant and a long tradition of bullfighting that today divides opinions.

My year in Manizales

Manizales sits on a mountain ridge in the department of Caldas, in the heart of the Coffee Region. It was founded in 1849 by settlers from Antioquia, and its steep streets climb and fall between green hills. On clear mornings you can see the snow-capped Nevado del Ruiz volcano from the city. The climate is mild all year, more like a permanent spring than the tropical heat many people imagine.

What made my year here so special? A few things:

• Sunsets in Chipre. The Chipre neighborhood, on the western edge of the city, has viewpoints over the mountains. At sunset, families walk, eat obleas and watch the sky turn orange and pink.
• A university city. Manizales has several universities, which give it a young, cultural energy. There are theaters, an international theater festival, bookstores and cafés where students talk for hours.
• Nature at the door. Within an hour you can be in hot springs, cloud forests or coffee farms.
• Safe, walkable neighborhoods. I feel comfortable walking in the areas I frequent, while taking the normal precautions I would take in any city.
• Good internet and a calm routine. As a remote English teacher, I need a reliable connection and a quiet place to work. Manizales gave me both, and the time difference with North America and Europe works well for my classes. I explain my weekly organization in working across time zones.

Above all, Manizales gave me friends. People here invited me into their homes, taught me their recipes and corrected my Spanish with endless patience. In return, I helped some of them with their English. That exchange is one of my favorite parts of living abroad: everyone is both a teacher and a student.

Places you must not miss in Colombia

Cartagena

The walled city of Cartagena is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with colorful colonial houses, bougainvillea on the balconies and squares full of life at night. Walk the walls at sunset, visit the Castillo de San Felipe and take a boat to the Rosario Islands.

Bogotá

The capital is a cultural giant. Visit the Gold Museum, the Botero Museum and La Candelaria, the historic district. Take the cable car or the funicular up to Monserrate for a view of the immense city. Sunday mornings, many main roads close for the Ciclovía, and thousands of people bike, run and skate.

Medellín

Medellín, the "City of Eternal Spring," is known for its transformation, its metro and cable cars that connect hillside neighborhoods, and its innovation. Comuna 13, with its street art and outdoor escalators, tells a powerful story of change. It is also one of the most popular cities in Latin America for remote workers.

The Coffee Region

Manizales, Pereira, Armenia, Salento, Filandia and the Cocora Valley, with its giant wax palms, the national tree. The Coffee Cultural Landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Read my complete Coffee Region guide.

Tayrona and the Sierra Nevada

Tayrona National Park combines jungle and wild Caribbean beaches. The multi-day trek to Ciudad Perdida is one of the great hikes of South America.

Caño Cristales and the Amazon

Caño Cristales, in the Sierra de La Macarena, is called the "river of five colors" because of the aquatic plants that turn it red, yellow and green during part of the year. Further south, Leticia is the gateway to the Colombian Amazon.

San Andrés and Providencia

Caribbean islands with a "sea of seven colors," where English-based Creole is spoken alongside Spanish. A wonderful place to practice your English while you snorkel.

Practical tips for visitors

• Learn basic Spanish. In big tourist areas you will find English speakers, but a few Spanish phrases open hearts. In return, many Colombians are learning English and love to practice.
• Pack for several climates. You may need a jacket in Bogotá and sandals in Cartagena on the same trip.
• Use registered transport. Use official taxis or ride apps, especially at night.
• Be smart with valuables. Locals say "no dar papaya": do not make yourself an easy target. Keep your phone out of sight in crowded places.
• Get travel health insurance. Read my guide to planning long-term travel for documents and insurance.
• Respect the pace. Things may take more time than you expect. Use that time to talk to people.
• Check entry requirements. Many nationalities can visit visa-free for short stays, and Colombia also offers visas for longer stays, including one for digital nomads. Always confirm current rules with official sources before you travel.

Useful English and Spanish for your trip

Notice the Colombian "¿Me regala…?", literally "Will you gift me…?". It is a polite way to ask for something in a shop, and you will pay for it, of course. Little expressions like this are exactly why I love teaching through travel. Read more in travel as a language classroom.

Why Colombia is perfect for remote workers

Colombia has become one of the favorite destinations for remote workers in Latin America. The reasons are practical: time zones aligned with North America, a reasonable cost of living compared with many Western cities, good internet in the main cities, modern coworking spaces, direct flights to many countries and a friendly community of locals and foreigners. Cities like Medellín, Bogotá, Cali, Pereira and Manizales each offer a different lifestyle, from big-city energy to mountain calm. I compare options in choosing a base as a digital nomad.

The risk is real

When I came to Manizales, I thought it would be one more stop on my journey. I have lived in Egypt, Malaysia, Uruguay and Canada, and I was born in Sweden, so I thought I knew what to expect from a new country. Colombia surprised me. It surprised me with the kindness of strangers, the beauty of the mountains at dawn, the taste of a hot arepa on a cold morning and the laughter of my neighbors on a Sunday afternoon.

So consider yourself warned. Colombia is a country that gets under your skin. Come with an open heart, a little Spanish and a lot of curiosity. The only risk is wanting to stay, and in my experience, that is a wonderful risk to take.